The two "C's"

Consistency and Calm.

Our puppies come pre potty trained. We start training the puppies as soon as they walk away from the bed to relieve themselves. The puppies are kept in a whelping box small enough to carry a bed and pee pad. That way the puppies crawl toward the Pee Pad to relive themselves. At age 10 to 12 days we trade the Pee Pad for a Puppy Litter Box with wooden comfort bedding.

At age 14 to 18 days the whelping Box is expanded for room for play, potty, and sleeping. Gradually the living space is expanded to a point where they roam in the house with us. First time free (under supervision) in the house we put Litter Boxes and Pee Pads in every room of the home.  (Lots of them) The smallest sign of needing to go, we pick up the Puppy and bring it to its Litter Box to relieve. Usually two days and the puppies know where to go.

We don't tell the puppies "No" or "Bad Puppy” when accidents happen. Though praise them like they won a gold medal when they did it right.

Puppies want attention; they soon learn that if they do well they get the attention they grave.

Up on arrival at your home we prefer if you have a Litter Box set up by the door you want the puppy to use to go outside. You may take your pup several times to the litter Box or outside. Pee pads spread over the house are helpful too. Gradually decent on the amount of Pads as to move them closer toward the door to outside. A crate to potty train your puppy is helpful now as you will start with the "O" and "T's” instructions you find below.

One advice though, the first thing in the morning and the last thing at night you do is taking your puppy outside.

 

Obedience is the first step to a happy relationship between puppy and owner. It also is the only base for any relationship.

Puppies need rules and regulations. Rules and regulations mean security and peace. It means security for your puppy and peace of mind for you. Some think taking a one weekend course in obedience will cure everything and afterward s let the puppy do pretty much as it pleases. It doesn’t. What you learn over this training weekend should be continued at home until the both of you had made it a routine. Stick to your rules, ever.

The “O” and “T”

Potty inside the house after the pup was already trained is usually a sign of distress or discomfort with a new situation. Usually insecurity arises with stress and changes. That’s when a youngster could start "Marking" or "Protest Peeing". Make sure you understand the difference to provide the right correction. Make sure your youngster doesn't have an infection or development incontinence.

The main thing your puppy needs to understand is where its place is in the pack (family). (Always the lowest position in the order)

Start giving it Orders and Times. The O and T’s mean security. Set times to sleep, time to get up, time to eat, time to potty, and play (outside) and main and most important, Time out. We prefer a crate to accomplish this. Its security and easy to accomplish. "Leaking youngsters” we prefer to control the water intake by giving it times for drinking too.

Wile correcting your youngster’s periods, DO NOT yell or get frustrated. (Never train a dog wile you are under stress) This is where the two “C’s” come in hand again. Crate your youngster over night. The first thing you do waking up is taking your youngster outside to potty. If the weather allows it, feed and water it outside at the same time. Second, you take care of your morning business, wile your youngster is taking care of its business. Make sure before you take your youngster back inside you will have time to fully concentrate on its training.

(If you don’t own a home with secured yard and you have to take your dog for walks to relieve, follow these instructions; Crate over night in a separate room, (point of this is not to tease your dog wile you prepare yourself for your daily routine) Take care of yourself, (shower and dress) Then take your youngster for its walk. Your youngsters relieves up to 3 or 4 times before it is save to take it back inside. So give it time to do so). Make sure you have time after breakfast to walk your dog again.

After potty and breakfast and walk take your youngster back inside spend 15 minutes in the same room with it. Then silently crate for 1 one hour. Put a treat and toy in its crate so it does not feel punished.

If the dog barks, ignore it, as soon as it stop’s take it out and praise it, spend 15 minutes of quality time with it, and crate again. You keep crating for several weeks wile expanding the quality times (together with you) out of the crate.

Point of this training method is to establish when and under what circumstances your youngster misbehaves and to correct it at the same time.

 

Leaving our home the puppy had received basic obedience and socializing.

Having to raise a single puppy is not much of a challenge. Though, two together can be quite a challenge.

Wile trained at our home not to be food jealous and attention jealous, this though may develop depends on how the social rules are held in your own household.  Some dogs need less attention and are more obedient (usually the males) wile others are more affection hogs and try to establish a higher position in the pack (family) (usually the females)

Males are simple, follow easier as they are less dominant. The females though need to establish their future position as protector of the pack (family). That means a female may be a bit more off standing and stubborn. Wile reaching the teenage stage a female may very well challenge its companion as the leader of the family. The trick is to not humanize dogs and keep it in a steady position beneath the family. She as he will always be below the lowest person in the house. This is accomplished with Obedience, obedience and obedience again. One will have to keep an open eye for behavior which could trigger the ruffle between the two dogs. Sometimes it’s just a look from the companion pointing out it wants to get its way against her will. Even no two dogs are the same; we though need to stay strict in training the both of them the same. We recommend visiting advanced dog schools, not just to get the training for the dogs, but to learn to establish regulations. (Which are very important for youngster) The dog won’t feel treated unfairly, but will realize its master is strong secure and because of it trustworthy. Why is this so important? The dog will realize it doesn’t have to fight its way up in the family as there is already a strong protector to depend on.

 

We will now establish new rules and a Time for everything for your “unruly” dogs.

 

“Time outs” these are times you crate your dogs at times you can not supervise them, when your dog is unruly, when your dog is misbehaving or just to get a stress free minute for yourself..

This needs to be done silently, no yelling at the dog for its wrongdoing (it will soon realize misbehavior cause cut of freedom) Yelling at it gives it the upper hand in this game as it received attention, maybe not the one it was looking for but nevertheless Attention.

 

“Time for play” 20/30 minutes outside and only under supervision. Dogs that already ruffled may not be left with out supervision until you have them under absolute control.

You don’t ever allow running barking and ruffles inside your house.

Take all the toys and treats away. This will ensure your dogs are not going to fight over them and it also forces your dogs to socialize with each other. After all, now they have nothing left but each other to socialize with ( you take the Xbox from your children when they start fighting with each other and they oh wonder, start spending more quality time with each other ).

 

Realize, dogs play rougher then human children (usually) J

So little rough play may develop, just watch and don’t let it get out of hand.

How? If the dogs get a bit to rough for YOUR taste then order them to you to hold a sit position in front of you for about 10 seconds. Then say “GOOD SIT” and send them off again. This you will repeat as much as necessary.

Do not talk to your dog’s wile they are to be in sit position. Keep a steady eye at them (no eye contact) and correct on foot when they try to get out of it. Correction; Grab the dog and pull it back in sit position with a strict loud SIT command. Helpful is also leaving collar and leash on your dog wile it plays outside under your supervision. Never let your unruly dogs roam and play with out supervision. (That will teach your dogs to stay close to you and pay attention)

(If your dog is well obedient trained it will follow your command with out a second thought)

 

The ruled Time outside should pretty much correct your dog’s behavior.

 

“Time for meals”.

Make sure you feed your dogs wile you can supervise them. Let them outside after the meal and follow the “Time outside rules” These time are kept shorter then its playtimes outside. I recommend 5 to 10 minutes after a meal.

You can also crate your dogs after the meal and take it out for a longer relive and playtime later.

 

“Times to Relax” inside the house and together with you.

These are most important times where you get to sit down and cuddle with your dogs wile you are relaxed. You may give teats and rub downs or just groom your dog. You will give as much time as they stay calm. As soon as you notice your dog wants to be more active in the house again, crate it. No treats or toys in its crate. This will teach your dog it has to be calm inside the house or its freedom will be cut short.

 

This training does not take much of your time wile it gives you a more relaxed and productive time to do what you have to do with out the stress correcting your dogs.

If you stay consistent your dogs will learn very fast and follow the rules of your house. Following rules means security, less stress and a comfortable atmosphere for your dogs and you.

 

I have several dogs of different ages roaming free in my house and duo to this training; they don't run bark or ruffle inside the house. Even the puppies at times get a bit rough or loud; correction on foot keeps my home peaceful even in stressful times.

***Here is a list of thing that can also cause Hip Dysplasia or make it worse : excess weight, excess or prolonged exercise before maturity, a fast growth rate, and high-calorie or supplemented diets.  Knowing the pedigree so that Hip Dysplasia is something that will not be a concern with future lines.

 

Let’s talk about Allergies.

 

Sometimes we notice a one sided ear infection usually left sided, which seems consistent or smelly dark coloring between the toes.

I prefer to look at it as what it is an overload of compounds. Allergies is nothing more then the liver telling its body it is overloaded with by products and chemicals and is just not able any longer to clean out the system. The liver is very important as it cleans and rid the body of compounds that damage it. If the body is overloaded the liver has no way of rid the "poison" many compounds are sweat or urinated out of the body. We clean the liver as followed;

For an 80 pound dog I use; 5 pounds of carrots 1 loaf of white bread. Then cook the carrots until soft. (Drain the water for later use) I then mash the carrots like mashed potatoes, cover the mush with water again and mix the whole loaf of white bread under. I feed this solely until all gone for about 4 days. I Do not feed anything else wile giving this diet.

This will clean out the liver and kidney and the dogs stop itching as early as day 2. I repeat this diet every 3 months when feeding Kibble diet.

Sometimes I mix garlic and parsley under for better taste.

 

Calcium

Wile in the growing phase your Boxer will need a certain amount of calcium to build a solid bone structure. American Boxers are finished building with 9 months, conclusion; it needs a higher amount of calcium. The German Boxer though takes 2 years of steady growing upwards, conclusion; it needs a lower amount of calcium for longer time period. What we need for the German Boxer is a food carrying a lower % of calcium and higher % of protein and fat to ensure a healthy based diet. We don’t feed any food made out of meat meal and we keep the calcium as low as possible. I rather feed cottage cheese and bananas and supplements as Gerber baby rice and Gerber oatmeal on the side together with a low calcium dog food. To much calcium intake cause severe Spondilosis and bone deformities.

 

 

 

Things we have in our kitchen and feed our dogs.

 

Parsley

Ginger

Garlic

White Beans

Carrots

Potato

Leak

Spinach

Bananas

Apples

Oranges

 

Karo syrup (rather then Honey)

Eggs

High fat Cottage cheese

High fat Yogurt

Stinky cheese (Limburger)

Sour high fat Milk (lumpy on the bottom and water on top, get rid of the water) (I know it’s gross)

Granola corn oil or Thistle oil

Raspberry tea leaves

 

Bacon fat (from our Sunday breakfast)

Fresh meat

Ground Turkey

Bones with bone marrow

White fish

 

Rice white and dark

Wheat germ

Geber rice - Gerber oatmeal

Corn flakes

 

 

 

Meds we keep in our doggy drawer

 

Children’s chewable aspirin

Benadryl

Kaopactate

Imodium, pill

Neosporin

Blood stop powder

Antibiotic ointment

Cloth tape

Cotton swaps and balls

Off spray for children

Vinegar white (not meds but helpful)

Rubbing alcohol

Peroxide

Disinfectant spray

Iodine

Bandage

 

Grooming your dog

I found that Gerber baby products are very excellent for your dog’s fur and skin. We bath our dogs with tear free baby shampoo and use baby oil to rub it after its bath. Puppies get dirty easy and more often then an adult dog so we need to bath more regular. Though if bathed to often the skin is losing its natural oil and moisture. By rubbing Baby oil (a couple sprizers in the hand) all over it we keep the moist in. It also smells good and gives a nice shine to the coat.

 

Here we list what your Veterinary and Breeders don't tell you.

The reports may be a bit long, but are well worth the time reading if you are interested in the Facts.

We will start with;

Early Spay is Murder!!! A study proving some very interesting facts against the standing believes.

The truth about White Boxers and Deafness!!! The only Professional study,ever done with and on White Boxers.

 

 

Early Spay is Murder

Early Spay-Neuter Considerations
for the Canine Athlete
One Veterinarian's Opinion
© 2005 Chris Zink DVM, PhD, DACVP

 

Early Spay Considerations (pdf).

 

 

 

 

Study by University Bonn Germany

 

The Truth about Deafness and White German Boxer.

The Truth is plain and simple; there is no genetic link between deafness and the White Boxer.

Duo to the genetic study done by the Veterinary University of Bonn and Hannover Germany and our own as other kennels breed studies, done with and on White Boxers, we can say that there is no genetic related link between the coloring white and deafness in this breed. Breed studies proved, that if this defect was produced, that a defected line was producing this. Breed statistics also prove that if a WHITE or BRINDLE male did produced a defect, they always will repeat this and with the same % rate. Though when a WHITE or FAWN female had produced a defect they may not necessary repeat this with a different partner.

On a personal note, How come does nobody question the colored Boxer that produced the deaf puppies?  And what I wonder even more about is the fact that even if they do produce deaf puppies, these dogs are still bred KNOWING they produced the defect.

In our breed studies we have also found that WHITE Boxer seem to be the weaker passer of defects and faults when mated to WHITE or COLORED partners. Meaning, that if there is a genetic fault present in its ancestry the WHITE candidate did not pass this on. When bred to a colored partner, neither the WHITE male nor the WHITE female passed on its own color either. Though had corrected bone structure and type immensely as stabilized the type over several generations.

Including the WHITE Boxer in a line for correction should only be done with the necessary genetic knowledge and with an ABSOLUTE FLAWELESS ancestry. Though the same should go for colored Boxers.

Again, I can only speak of German Boxers as I have no experience with American Boxers.

White Boxer Study of the Veterinary University of Bonn Germany

http://www.freewebs.com/iwbc/realisticwhiteboxerstudy.htm

Dog-Language and what it tells us:

Barking:
sharp, high frequent:	aggressive threatening, warning
clear, low frequent:	alert, warning
Short breath, japing, high frequent:	Inviting to play
"jupping", low frequent:	Exciding attention asking
growl:
Consistent low frequent:	Definitely threatening.
Short breath, high frequent:	warning, alert
Short breath, high frequent:	demanding
variety, high- to low frequent:	inviting
Screaming:
High pitch, high frequent:	preventives Self protection at fear
High pitch, middle- to high frequent:	Fear of first fight
Lasting and middle frequent:	Strong pain
whining:
lasting, middle frequent:	Sadness and loneliness
short breaking, middle- to high frequent:	Ear pain
yarning:
stretched, overly clear:	embarrassment, insecurity
slowly, hard:	Real tired
Howling:
lasting, middle- to high frequent:	Social communication
Half yarning:
Half hearted yarning, Yarn growl , middle frequent:	sexual interest
whining:
Short breath, middle frequent:	Pain or fear (usually puppies)
Foaming threatenings:
snapping bites, hyper ventilating, foaming:	highly Aggressive, under great Stress, or great pain

Let’s talk about Allergies.

 

Sometimes we notice a one sided ear infection usually left sided, which seems consistent or smelly dark coloring between the toes.

I prefer to look at it as what it is an overload of compounds. Allergies is nothing more then the liver telling its body it is overloaded with by products and chemicals and is just not able any longer to clean out the system. The liver is very important as it cleans and rid the body of compounds that damage it. If the body is overloaded the liver has no way of rid the "poison" many compounds are sweat or urinated out of the body. We clean the liver as followed;

For an 80 pound dog I use; 5 pounds of carrots 1 loaf of white bread. Then cook the carrots until soft. (Drain the water for later use) I then mash the carrots like mashed potatoes, cover the mush with water again and mix the whole loaf of white bread under. I feed this solely until all gone for about 4 days. I Do not feed anything else wile giving this diet.

This will clean out the liver and kidney and the dogs stop itching as early as day 2. I repeat this diet every 3 months when feeding Kibble diet.

Sometimes I mix garlic and parsley under for better taste.

Wile in the growing phase your Boxer will need a certain amount of calcium to build a solid bone structure. American Boxers are finished building with 9 months, conclusion; it needs a higher amount of calcium. The German Boxer though takes 2 years of steady growing upwards, conclusion; it needs a lower amount of calcium for longer time period. What we need for the German Boxer is a food carrying a lower % of calcium and higher % of protein and fat to ensure a healthy based diet. We don’t feed any food made out of meat meal and we keep the calcium as low as possible. I rather feed cottage cheese and bananas and supplements as Gerber baby rice and Gerber oatmeal on the side together with a low calcium dog food. To much calcium intake cause severe Spondilosis and bone deformities.

Some thoughts on Kennel Blindness

There is no such thing as a perfect Boxer, just like there is no such thing as a perfect human. A good breeder keeps its eyes open to every little thing that needs correction. And this is what breeding is about, to correct and build toward the most perfect creature possible. I am very critical. I always am driven to better what I have and look very critical at it. Even others say that they already seem perfect; I still pick them apart to the smallest point to archive my goal. Beauty is in the eye of the beholder. But I can not afford to adapt to this thinking as there is a specific type we all need to hold. A type I follow and work hard to archive to perfection. We all believe our Boxers are the best, we like to judge with love in our hearts. I love my Boxers, but look at them with magnifying glasses, not to miss the slightest little part that may need correction and need to be considered in their future breeding. I look generations ahead to accomplish my goal to perfectionism.

Some thoughts on some imported "German Boxers"

Watching the "German Boxer" development here in USA the last couple of years, makes my hair stick up in my neck. What some call a German Boxer is a poor bred European/German Boxer. Just because it has a German name does not make it a good quality German Boxer. I seen Boxers imported for high bucks with bad hips and bad hearts, not to speak of the other defects they had been afflicted with. And breeders happily using this dog for reproduction, why... Because it’s a German. Bulky fat faces with intimidating face expressions and heavy Mastiff type body builds. I understand the American Boxer need's correction (and so does the German Boxer) but please use common sense when choosing the type to do this with.  Put aside your personal preference and breed for the given type, there is a reason why we developed its King like type instead the Butcher dog type.

Fresh scent may hide toxic secret

Innocuous-sounding 'perfume' in detergents, air fresheners made with dangerous chemicals

By LISA STIFFLER
P-I REPORTER

(Editor's Note: An updated federal database no longer considers ethanol or chloromethane possible carcinogens. The graphic that accompanies this story used older information, as did the University of Washington study.)

The scented fabric sheet makes your shirts and socks smell flowery fresh and clean. That plug-in air freshener fills your home with inviting fragrances of apple and cinnamon or a country garden.

But those common household items are potentially exposing your family and friends to dangerous chemicals, a University of Washington study has found.

Trouble is, you have no way of knowing it. Manufacturers of detergents, laundry sheets and air fresheners aren't required to list all of their ingredients on their labels -- or anywhere else. Laws protecting people from indoor air pollution from consumer products are limited.

When UW engineering professor Anne Steinemann analyzed of some of these popular items, she found 100 different volatile organic compounds measuring 300 parts per billion or more -- some of which can be cancerous or cause harm to respiratory, reproductive, neurological and other organ systems.

Some of the chemicals are categorized as hazardous or toxic by federal regulatory agencies. But the labels tell a different story, naming only innocuous-sounding "perfume" or "biodegradable" contents.

"Consumers are breathing these chemicals," she said. "No one is doing anything about it."

Industry representatives say that isn't so.

"Dr. Steinemann's statement is misleading and disingenuous," said Chris Cathcart, president of the Washington, D.C.-based Consumer Specialty Products Association, in a statement.

"Air fresheners, laundry products and other consumer specialty products are regulated under the Federal Hazardous Substances Act and subsequently have strict labeling requirements," he said. "Companies producing products that are regulated under FHSA must name on the product label each component that contributes to the hazard."

Millions are spent annually to ensure that fragrances in the products are safe, according to a joint statement from the Fragrance Materials Association, which represents fragrance manufacturers and the Research Institute for Fragrance Materials, which works closely with the association.

Ingredients are routinely tested, and chemicals that are considered dangerous are present at levels much too low to cause harm, according to the groups.

But there are numerous reports of people -- particularly those with asthma, chemical sensitivities and allergies -- having strong adverse reactions, researchers said.

That's a problem when public restrooms in restaurants or airplanes use air fresheners, or when hotels wash towels and sheets in scented laundry supplies. And even when the concentrations are low in individual products, people are exposed to multiple sources on a daily basis.

Aileen Gagney, Asthma and Environmental Health Program manager with the American Lung Association in Seattle, herself an asthma sufferer, has a rule of thumb to help avoid exposure: "If it smells bad, it's bad; if it smells good, it's bad."

But even that won't always work.

According to Steinemann, even products labeled "unscented" sometimes contain a fragrance and a "masking" fragrance to make them odor-free.

People, Puget Sound at risk?

For Steinemann's research, published Wednesday in Environmental Impact Assessment Review, she selected a top-selling item from six categories of products: dryer sheets, fabric softeners, detergents, and solid, spray and plug-in air fresheners.

Then she contracted with a lab to test the air around the items to identify the chemicals people could be breathing.

Ten of the 100 volatile organic compounds identified qualified under federal rules as toxic or hazardous, and three of those -- 1,4-dioxane, acetaldehyde and chloromethane -- are "hazardous air pollutants" considered unsafe to breathe at any concentration, according to the study.

The labels gave no indication that the irritating and potentially dangerous chemicals were present, so Steinemann checked the product's Material Safety Data Sheets. These technical documents provide ingredient information for the safety of workers and emergency responders. They, too, disclosed little detail, mostly citing ingredients such as "essential oils" and "organic perfume."

"It's a reasonable expectation to think that laundry products and air fresheners would be free of chemicals that can cause cancer," said Erika Schreder, a staff scientist with the Washington Toxics Coalition.

"But as this UW study shows, it's disturbingly easy to find toxic chemicals in everyday products like these because companies don't have to say what's in their products."

Cathcart, of the Consumer Specialty Products Association, said the information's not on the package because the "chemicals are not present in the products at levels deemed hazardous under the law. Given the limited space on product labels, it is important to include the relevant information consumers need to make intelligent use, storage and disposal decisions."

The threat isn't limited to people. Steinemann and others worry that the chemicals in consumer products flow from homes to the outdoors.

"These chemicals get into our water systems and into Puget Sound," she said. They are "extraordinarily hard to get out of the environment."

Steinemann's research was paid for using discretionary money awarded to her as a UW professor; she wanted to avoid any appearance of a conflict of interest. She has also submitted for publication a study that goes further to examine ingredients in cleaning and personal-care products.

Regulatory gaps

With fears growing over chemicals in consumer products -- lead in toys, bisphenol A in plastic baby bottles, phthalates in shower curtains and cosmetics -- environmentalists and health advocates are calling for stricter regulations of chemicals in everyday goods. They also want shoppers to have more readily accessible information.

Manufacturers and trade groups representing consumer products routinely counter that there's plenty of testing and oversight from within the industries and from government regulations to ensure safety.

In the fragranced-products arena, they point to industry Web sites with information on product ingredients and suggest contacting companies with specific questions.

Critics maintain that's not enough.

"There's obviously a loophole," said Michael Robinson-Dorn, a UW law professor who aided Steinemann's research. "We regulate many of these chemicals in other circumstances, yet when they're in products that we're in contact with daily, in some cases, we don't wind up finding out about them."

He said the items can slip between regulatory cracks by falling into the jurisdiction of multiple government agencies, none taking ownership.

"Any time you have a product that is regulated by many different agencies, it's easy for them not to react," he said.

In the absence of strong laws, the marketplace is starting to regulate itself.

After the Natural Resources Defense Council last fall found troubling levels of phthalates -- plasticizing chemicals that can potentially harm developing babies -- in air fresheners, Walgreens pulled the products from its shelves.

Last month, NRDC and other environmental groups sued the Environmental Protection Agency to force manufacturers to test air freshener safety and label products with a full ingredient list.

Steinemann's study could push the process along.

"Consumer demand for less-toxic products will encourage companies to reformulate their products," she said. "This is a case where a little information could have a great public benefit."

P-I reporter Lisa Stiffler can be reached at 206-448-8042 or lisastiffler@seattlepi.com. Read her blog on the environment at datelineearth.com.

This is what show ring breeders do -- they ruin working breeds. And it is not just the AKC show ring, either -- it's the UKC show ring and the JRTCA show ring as well. Give any show ring enough time, and it will ruin any breed of working dog -- it always has and it always will.

 

"We [the AKC] have gotten away from what dogs were originally bred for. In some cases we have paid so much attention to form that we have lost the use of the dog."

 

written by Fred Heal

When people purchase a purebred dog they may be on the road to becoming a “breeder” in their chosen breed. Sometime down that road, if they persist, they will pass through several stages some very rewarding and others filled with set backs, heartbreak, financial drain, enormous pride, and hopefully satisfaction. At the end of that same road there will be tons of memories and, if you have done things right, the good memories will out weigh the bad. One thing you will eventually learn is that having someone to guide you along the way (a mentor) will make the road much easier, but you have not learned that yet.

The six stages of becoming a successful breeder are:

The “Wannabee”: This is when you have acquired your first dog gone to a few shows and seen people with immaculately groomed examples of your breed winning big ribbons and you want to get involved and do the same. You may have even shown your first dog and maybe won a white or yellow ribbon. That alone is enough to send you on your way to a life long hobby. But just wait ....

The “Rookie” is the next stage in your travels. It begins when you have started to win a few classes and you have the taste of wining so strong in your mouth you just have to do more. Maybe you got lucky and garnered more than your share of wins with your first puppy and now you want to set the world on fire and win a Best of Breed or even get a Group placing. You look at the successful breeders in your area and think “just watch me go! I am going to learn this sport and beat you guys every time out!” Well you can think this all you like, but it ain’t going to happen...... yet!

You talk to everyone who thinks they are a breeder, even those with other breeds. You pick their brains and store all the information in the back of your mind. After a while all the contradicting things you have been told gives you a headache and you decide to just jump in and begin your career as a breeder. BUT, now is the time when you are going to make lots of mistakes. Even if you realize your dog is not really an animal that should be bred from, you go ahead anyway. If you happen to see the light and purchase a real “Show Prospect” as your foundation bitch, you can bet it won’t be the dog that you really hoped for. Now is when you rationalize everything you have been told and think “well I will breed her to a better dog and produce better pups”. Wrong! The genes from your bitch will offset the hopefully superior genes from the male and you will be haunted for the rest of your breeding life by this initial mistake!

Now you have bred your first litter, had pups die, paid the veterinarian tons of money for health tests, maybe a C-section, shots, etc., and now you hope to sell all your pups to “show homes”, keep the best puppy for yourself, and then take the wonder pups to their first show and prove to everyone how good a breeder you are. Again, it ain’t going to happen......yet.

Well now you are ready for the “Novice stage”. This is when you have gone through the trials of your first litter, paid your dues, and have decided to continue on your quest to become a breeder of great show dogs. Well you still don’t know enough to be set loose in a breeding kennel but no one can stop you now! In fact this is the time to really get into studying bloodlines, genotype, phenotype, genetics, health inheritance factors, and all those other words you heard people taking about at the shows. Considering you have made the commitment to become a breeder you should now be prepared to study the breed standard, learn the dog show rules of the game and most important.....find a mentor! A mentor is someone who has been around for years (lets say 20 or 30 years) preferably in your breed, and even more important ....someone who has been successful in the breed. I mean here that a mentor should have produced a national specialty winner, won multiple Groups and at least one BIS on their dogs, and be respected by breeders, handlers, and even those that are envious of them. There is no use in having a mentor that has not “been there, done that” in dogs. When you find this person plead with them for advice, suggestions, assistance, and for them to teach you what you don’t know. This is a big job so don’t be surprised if they beg off! But don’t give up, a good mentor can save you thousands of dollars and make the road to your becoming a successful breeder much shorter and enjoyable.

OK, now you are ready to enter the “Intermediate stage” as a breeder. This is the stage that may last for the longest period of time of any other stage. In fact if you don’t learn from your mistakes it could last for the rest of your life in dogs! This is the stage where you have bred several litters, been through most of the problems a breeder might encounter, and hopefully learned how NOT to have those problems again. You still don’t know what you don’t know, but you have faced the dragons in the whelping box and produced some acceptable dogs for the show ring. So this is the “practice” stage. It is where you try to improve your bloodline, establish consistency in breed type, produce healthy animals for your clients, and develop a “presence” at the dog shows. You win the breed and gracefully accept your wins, compete in the Group and maybe once in a while you win one. You are still not a national figure in your breed but your name does sound familiar to a couple of veteran breeders. They may even have noticed your dogs in the ring. Maybe even said “nice dog” to you when they pass you at the nationals. But you still have many things to learn!!!

Being recognized as a “Top Breeder” is a stage that is not based on age, sex, years in the whelping box, or by any attribute except success. This is when you may have won your national specialty several times, have produced top winners in your breed and other breeders are buying dogs from you to improve their bloodlines. When you enter a dog show people in your breed say “oh damn” s/he is here again, what chance do we have! You have learned the dog game and are playing it well. You have an eye for a dog and can look at your breed in the ring and pick the winners. You travel to shows to watch the competition and rate your chances of beating them. You look for dogs that you could use to compliment your bloodline or maybe buy if the special qualities have not been noticed in that animal yet. You show your dogs often and prove your ability to win over the best competition. Now other Novices and new breeders are coming to you for advice. You have arrived!

There is still another stage however that exists somewhat beyond the top breeder stage and that is when dog people and your peers consider you a “Breed Authority”. This is when you have been at the top breeder level for many years, made your place in the history books of your breed and now either don’t breed anymore or are involved only at the National Breed Club level. You have “been there & done that” many times over. When other top breeders want to confirm their breeding plans or get a knowledgeable opinion on their up & coming new show dog.....they come to you as a Breed Authority. If they are planning an out cross breeding they ask you, the breed authority, for an opinion. Where else can they go? A breed authority has reached the top of the pile in their breed. They have done it all, several times.

So what is the next stage for Breed Authorities? Who knows, but what ever it is they will have enough great memories to last them a life time!!

TYPE VS TYPEY

written and submitted by Bill Garnett, USA

"the DOBERMAN PINSCHER is a square, compact, medium

size dog

of balanced proportions, noble in its carriage, courageous

by nature and SOUND of mind, body and joints"

 

Recently I was talking to a good friend of mine about . . . what else?  Dobermans!  He's been involved in the sport of pure bred dogs in general, including Dobermans, for many years.  But more recently he has been showing (owner handling) his Labrador and doing a whale of job.  He's had "Ben" ranked around fourth or fifth, nationally, for the last couple of years.  Not to take anything away from Mike's handling . . . I do have to say "Ben" is a heck of a nice Lab.        

Anyway, Mike and I have enjoyed many discussions regarding dogs in general and Dobermans in particular and he knows exactly where I stand regarding soundness and has for years agreed with me in that regard.  But the other day he said something to me that really got me to set up and take notice.  We were discussing Dobermans after he'd been on the Florida, Louisville and Raleigh circuits and Mike said to me.  "You know
Bill, the Doberman has lost it's (type)."  To which I said, "No Mike not you . . . not you too!"  To which he said.  "Now hear me out before you get all bent out of shape.  Years ago soundness was very important because people were breeding to the correct concept that a Doberman was a square, compact, medium size dog, of balanced proportions. Type was in abundance and we looked to over all soundness to separate the wheat from the chaff.   The only fly in the ointment, or if you will differences of opinion, in those days, was size.  What has happened in the last decade, for whatever reason, is that Doberman people have just lost their way. They've gotten caught up in the old 'what wins' black hole . . .  As to the 'what's right' even blacker hole, they have traded proper breed type for the improper (typey) Doberman."  Why?  In some ways it's really not the breeders fault because today's judges are going with the 'typey' Doberman instead of the 'correct type' Doberman . . . breeders usually do go with the flow.  It's a helluva lot easier than beating their heads against the wall.  The 'typey' Doberman is long and low (rectangled), out of balance and lacks compactness.  It's 'typey' all right . . . but it's the wrong (type)."  He went on with his oratory such as only Mike can do, saying. "In order to correct this problem we have to buy into the standard and understand fundamental breed type.  Fundamental (breed type) is reflected in dogs that are square, compact, medium sized and of balanced proportions." Mike continued, "The buck stops with the judges.  In order to correct this situation, of 'typey' winning over correct type, this is what Doberman judges need to do.  First look at the class and if not physically, then mentally pull out the dogs of correct breed type . . . square, compact, medium sized and of balanced proportions.  Line them up in order of how well they subscribe to the standard (square, compact, medium sized and of balanced proportions) and then go about picking out the soundest of that group."  Out of the mouth of babes!!!

You know what?  Mike is right!  Yes you heard what you thought you heard. Correct breed type has gone by the wayside.  Now, before you get carried away and say that Garnett has finally overheated, don't forget what I have been preaching for years.  By adhering to the standard, proper breed type will manifest itself automatically when we breed . . .   square, compact, medium sized dogs of balanced proportions that are noble in their carriage, courageous by their nature and sound of mind, body and joints.  What we are going through now are 'typey' dogs that are long and low, certainly not square, certainly not of balanced proportions and certainly not compact.  Because of those attributes these dogs are simply not sound either in their static or kinetic positions.  Their fronts are too straight and too far forward.  They flip, flop and pop all over the place. Because of their lack of balance they run up hill. And because of their over-angulated rears they crouch and run on their hocks.  I just missed what really was going on because of the total lack of soundness that is being exhibited.  Proper breed type has indeed strayed and has been replaced by improper (typey) Dobermans.  It's as simple as that.  I just couldn't see the forest for the trees.

I'm not going to argue the point with anyone so don't bother to try and get me to take the bait.  You either get it or you don't. Either you pull your head out of the sand, take off your blinders and stop breeding whatever judges are willing to put up or you suck it up. admit to playing to the judges whims and do the right thing for the future of the breed.  Its really that simple.  If judges would hang tough, learn and then put up the correct breed type, within four years breeders would be back on the right track and the breed would be back on the high road.

Type vs. Typey...is there a difference? You bet it is.  What are you going to do about it? What are we going to do about it.  What am I going to do about it?  I'll tell you what I'm going to do about it.  As a judge I pledge to recommit myself to being a part of a team that resurrects the correct breed type that's manifested when one subscribes to breeding to the standard.